
You've got options. Nintendo controllers, old controllers, third-party controllers. Let's break it down.
Joy-Con 2: Comes with the console. Magnetic attachment, mouse mode, GameChat button. The new standard.
Switch 2 Pro Controller: Full-size, $80, has everything. HD Rumble 2, motion controls, amiibo, back buttons, headphone jack. Worth it if you play docked a lot.
GameCube Controller: Nintendo makes one specifically for Switch 2. Great for the GameCube classics library.
Your Old Joy-Cons: They still work! Just wirelessly though. They won't snap onto the sides. Keep them around for games that need the IR Motion Camera.
Your Old Pro Controller: Also works. Pairs wirelessly or plugs into the dock. Can't wake the console from sleep, but otherwise fine.
Basically any Bluetooth controller works. PC gamepads, phone controllers, whatever. Go to Settings, Controllers & Sensors, Change Grip/Order, put your controller in pairing mode, done.
Pro tip: if Joy-Con drift annoys you, look for controllers with Hall Effect sensors. They use magnets instead of the parts that wear out. No drift.
Eight controllers max. That's theoretical though. The actual limit depends on which types you're using and what features they're running.
Mix and match freely. Someone on old Joy-Cons, someone on a Pro Controller, someone on a third-party pad. It all works together.
Where this comes from: This answer is based on ShopSavvy's product database, real-time pricing from thousands of retailers, and a look at hundreds of user reviews to give you a well-rounded picture.
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Nope. The Switch 2 Pro Controller only works with Switch 2. No backward compatibility here.
Both consoles use Bluetooth, so you'd think it would work. But Nintendo built the new Pro Controller with features and protocols specific to Switch 2. The original Switch can't understand them.
The C button for GameChat, the programmable back buttons, the new HD Rumble 2. None of that makes sense on the old console.
The reverse works. Your original Pro Controller connects to Switch 2 just fine. Bluetooth pairing or USB cable, your choice.
A few minor limitations when using the old Pro Controller on Switch 2:
Nothing deal-breaking for actual gaming.
Own both a Switch and Switch 2? Keep the old Pro Controller for the old console. Use the new Pro Controller on Switch 2. Clean separation.
Need extra controllers for multiplayer? The old Pro Controller works on Switch 2 as a secondary option.
The Switch 2 Pro Controller isn't cheap. Here's what the price gets you: better rumble, GameChat button, back buttons you can program, headphone jack, motion controls, amiibo support.
Some third-party controllers work with both consoles. If cross-compatibility matters to you, check the specs before buying. It varies by manufacturer and model.
The Switch 2 is picky about power. Your old charger might not cut it for TV mode.
Here's the deal: TV mode needs at least 60 watts (20 volts at 3 amps). The original Switch only needed 15V. So if you're trying to use old Switch dock accessories, they might charge the console but won't enable TV output. You'll be stuck in handheld mode.
The dock and charger that came with your Switch 2. Those are designed for it.
Beyond that, most quality 60W+ USB-C chargers work fine. MacBook chargers (61W+), Anker, Belkin, Ugreen. Basically any reputable brand with Power Delivery at 60W or more.
Just charging in portable mode? Requirements are relaxed. A 30W or 45W charger works, just charges slower. The console actually only pulls 15-17W when charging anyway. Nintendo deliberately limits it to keep heat down and protect the battery.
They exist. Some work great. Some have bricked Nintendo consoles in the past. If you go third-party, look for one that explicitly says Switch 2 compatible and hits that 60W threshold. Cheap unbranded ones are risky.
The Switch 2 dock has its own cooling fan now. It kicks on during docked gaming to handle the extra heat from running at full power.
Docked but stuck in handheld mode? Your charger probably doesn't hit 60W. That's the most common issue when using older accessories.
256GB built-in. That's 8 times more than the original Switch. And it's faster storage too.
Original Switch had a measly 32GB. Switch OLED bumped it to 64GB. Switch 2 goes to 256GB. You'll notice the difference immediately in load times because UFS 3.1 is significantly faster than the old eMMC storage.
When 256GB isn't enough, you can add microSD Express cards up to 2TB. Important catch: regular microSD cards don't work. You need the Express type with the "EX" logo.
Samsung, SanDisk, and Lexar make compatible cards. Prices are still high because Switch 2 is one of the first devices requiring this standard. They'll come down eventually.
Games download to internal storage or your microSD Express card. Screenshots and captures can go to either.
Save data? That stays on internal storage only. No moving it to external cards.
The new "game-key cards" are physical media, but they still require a download to play. You need room on internal storage or a microSD Express card.
Depends how you play. Physical game buyers? You might never fill it. Digital buyers with large libraries will eventually need expansion.
Rough math: a dozen or so major games plus a bunch of smaller indies before you hit the limit. If you routinely delete games you've finished, 256GB goes a long way.
Most people won't need expansion right away. Wait for microSD Express prices to drop unless you're already running low.
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