Yep. The Joy-Con drift problem is back. Some people have seen it show up within days of getting their Switch 2.
Why Is This Still Happening?
Nintendo didn't fix the underlying cause. The Joy-Con 2 uses the same potentiometer-based stick technology as the original. These sensors wear out over time and start registering input when you're not touching the stick. That's drift.
Hall Effect sensors, which use magnets and basically don't wear out, would have solved this. But Nintendo apparently couldn't use them because the Joy-Con 2 already relies on magnets to attach to the console. More magnets might have caused interference issues.
The iFixit Verdict
iFixit tore down the Switch 2 and gave it a 3 out of 10 for repairability. Getting to the stick components to fix drift yourself? Good luck. They called the disassembly process "perhaps needlessly complicated."
At Least There's Free Replacement
Nintendo is replacing drifting Joy-Con 2 controllers for free. If yours starts acting up, contact support and they'll send you a replacement.
Some Tips That Might Help
Sweaty hands and humid environments speed up sensor wear. Keep your gaming space cool and well-ventilated. If you use mouse mode, leave Dead-Zone Dampening at the default setting. It helps filter out minor drift.
Or Just Get Different Controllers
The Switch 2 Pro Controller may hold up better. Third-party options with Hall Effect sensors exist too. If drift drives you crazy, those are worth considering.
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Where this comes from: This answer is based on ShopSavvy's product database, real-time pricing from thousands of retailers, and a look at hundreds of user reviews to give you a well-rounded picture.
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Nope. The Switch 2 Pro Controller only works with Switch 2. No backward compatibility here.
That Seems Weird
Both consoles use Bluetooth, so you'd think it would work. But Nintendo built the new Pro Controller with features and protocols specific to Switch 2. The original Switch can't understand them.
The C button for GameChat, the programmable back buttons, the new HD Rumble 2. None of that makes sense on the old console.
Good News Though
The reverse works. Your original Pro Controller connects to Switch 2 just fine. Bluetooth pairing or USB cable, your choice.
A few minor limitations when using the old Pro Controller on Switch 2:
- Can't wake the console from sleep
- No GameChat button (obviously)
- No back buttons
- Older rumble
Nothing deal-breaking for actual gaming.
The Two-Console Situation
Own both a Switch and Switch 2? Keep the old Pro Controller for the old console. Use the new Pro Controller on Switch 2. Clean separation.
Need extra controllers for multiplayer? The old Pro Controller works on Switch 2 as a secondary option.
What You Get for $80
The Switch 2 Pro Controller isn't cheap. Here's what the price gets you: better rumble, GameChat button, back buttons you can program, headphone jack, motion controls, amiibo support.
Third-Party Options
Some third-party controllers work with both consoles. If cross-compatibility matters to you, check the specs before buying. It varies by manufacturer and model.
The Switch 2 is picky about power. Your old charger might not cut it for TV mode.
The 60W Requirement
Here's the deal: TV mode needs at least 60 watts (20 volts at 3 amps). The original Switch only needed 15V. So if you're trying to use old Switch dock accessories, they might charge the console but won't enable TV output. You'll be stuck in handheld mode.
What Definitely Works
The dock and charger that came with your Switch 2. Those are designed for it.
Beyond that, most quality 60W+ USB-C chargers work fine. MacBook chargers (61W+), Anker, Belkin, Ugreen. Basically any reputable brand with Power Delivery at 60W or more.
Handheld Charging Is Easier
Just charging in portable mode? Requirements are relaxed. A 30W or 45W charger works, just charges slower. The console actually only pulls 15-17W when charging anyway. Nintendo deliberately limits it to keep heat down and protect the battery.
Third-Party Docks: Proceed Carefully
They exist. Some work great. Some have bricked Nintendo consoles in the past. If you go third-party, look for one that explicitly says Switch 2 compatible and hits that 60W threshold. Cheap unbranded ones are risky.
New Dock Feature
The Switch 2 dock has its own cooling fan now. It kicks on during docked gaming to handle the extra heat from running at full power.
Troubleshooting
Docked but stuck in handheld mode? Your charger probably doesn't hit 60W. That's the most common issue when using older accessories.
256GB built-in. That's 8 times more than the original Switch. And it's faster storage too.
The Upgrade Is Real
Original Switch had a measly 32GB. Switch OLED bumped it to 64GB. Switch 2 goes to 256GB. You'll notice the difference immediately in load times because UFS 3.1 is significantly faster than the old eMMC storage.
Expanding Storage
When 256GB isn't enough, you can add microSD Express cards up to 2TB. Important catch: regular microSD cards don't work. You need the Express type with the "EX" logo.
Samsung, SanDisk, and Lexar make compatible cards. Prices are still high because Switch 2 is one of the first devices requiring this standard. They'll come down eventually.
What Goes Where
Games download to internal storage or your microSD Express card. Screenshots and captures can go to either.
Save data? That stays on internal storage only. No moving it to external cards.
The new "game-key cards" are physical media, but they still require a download to play. You need room on internal storage or a microSD Express card.
How Long Will 256GB Last?
Depends how you play. Physical game buyers? You might never fill it. Digital buyers with large libraries will eventually need expansion.
Rough math: a dozen or so major games plus a bunch of smaller indies before you hit the limit. If you routinely delete games you've finished, 256GB goes a long way.
Bottom Line
Most people won't need expansion right away. Wait for microSD Express prices to drop unless you're already running low.
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