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The Sony WH-1000XM6 delivers exceptional battery life that ranks among the best in premium noise-canceling headphones.
Official ratings:
Real-world performance: Independent testing shows approximately 37 hours with ANC active—exceeding Sony's conservative estimates.
A full charge takes about 3.5 hours via USB-C. The quick charge feature is particularly impressive:
Unlike the previous XM5, you can listen to the WH-1000XM6 while it charges. The battery will charge to approximately 80% during use. This is ideal when you need to plug into a power bank during travel and keep listening.
Check remaining battery in the Sony Sound Connect app, or listen for the voice announcement when powering on.
Bottom line: The XM6's battery easily handles long-haul flights, full work weeks of commuting, or extended listening sessions without anxiety about running dry.
The ASUS ROG Strix 27” XG27UCG is a powerhouse for gamers and creatives who want top-tier 4K visuals combined with a fast, responsive panel and premium build. However, be prepared for potential flickering issues and a fiddly menu that can test your patience. If ultimate reliability and easy setup are must-haves, or if you want a simpler HDR experience, you might consider alternatives, but for those chasing crisp visuals and dual-mode high refresh rates, this monitor delivers on the hype. Overall, it’s a compelling choice with a few technical quirks that buyers should weigh carefully.
If you love classic Gatorade flavors but want them in a convenient, travel-friendly can with a nostalgic twist, this 3-flavor variety pack is a solid pick. The Lemon Lime and Orange flavors stand out for their lively taste, while the pack’s retro design adds charm. However, if you’re a devoted Fruit Punch fan or crave that intense bottled flavor burst, you might want to temper expectations. Overall, it’s a refreshing and practical option for hydration anywhere, anytime.
The Schylling NeeDoh Atomic sensory fidget toy offers quick stress relief and charming design, making it a decent choice for light or occasional use and gifting. However, if you're after durability and longer-lasting performance, this particular model may not hold up well, as the ball and silicone cage are fragile and prone to breaking quickly. Buyers expecting multiple balls or color options should be aware they're purchasing a single, assorted color ball. For a more robust option, consider exploring other Schylling NeeDoh versions known for better durability, especially if you want a fidget toy that can withstand frequent squeezing.
The weBoost for Business Office 200 is a powerhouse signal booster perfectly suited for large office environments or challenging locations where cell coverage is poor or nonexistent. Its wide coverage and strong performance across all carriers justify the investment if you need a reliable 5G/4G LTE signal boost over a large area. Just be prepared to spend some time during installation dialing in the antenna placement for the best results. If you're looking for a slightly easier setup at a smaller scale, you might consider other boosters focused on smaller footprints, but for commercial-grade coverage, this is a top contender.
Let me cut through the usual review fluff: yes, the Steam Deck OLED is worth the price for most people considering buying one. But let me explain why, and be honest about who it's NOT for.
The 512GB OLED is $549. The 1TB is $649.
Is that expensive? Kind of. Is it expensive for what you get? Not really.
A Nintendo Switch OLED is $349, but it's way less powerful and games are more expensive. Gaming laptops start around $800+ and aren't as portable. The ROG Ally costs similar money but has worse battery life and Windows headaches.
For portable PC gaming, the Steam Deck OLED is competitively priced.
Your Steam library travels with you. All those games you bought during Steam sales over the years? They all work on the Deck. That's potentially hundreds or thousands of dollars in games you already own, now portable.
Steam sales are insane. I bought Cyberpunk 2077 for $30. Elden Ring for $35. Building a game library on Steam costs way less than Nintendo or console gaming.
No online subscription required. PlayStation Plus is $60/year. Nintendo Online is $20/year. Steam multiplayer? Free for most games.
If you have Steam games: Obvious value. Your library becomes portable overnight.
If you travel or commute: Real AAA portable gaming. Not mobile games—actual PC games on trains, planes, and couches.
If you like indie games: The Deck runs indie stuff beautifully, and indie games are dirt cheap on Steam.
If you're into retro gaming: Emulation works great. PS2, GameCube, older consoles—they all run well.
If you only play Valorant/Destiny 2: Sorry, anti-cheat prevents these from working. No workaround.
If you need maximum graphics: The Deck runs AAA games at medium settings, not ultra. It's a handheld, not a gaming PC.
If you rarely leave your desk: Why buy portable if you're always at home with a better setup?
If budget is extremely tight: A Nintendo Switch is cheaper if you just want portable gaming and don't care about the power difference.
Yes. The screen and battery improvements are substantial. If you're buying new, get the OLED. The LCD is discontinued anyway.
I think about value like this: if you'll use the Steam Deck regularly—a few times a week for gaming sessions—you'll get excellent value from it. The combination of hardware quality, game access, and Steam's pricing makes it a smart investment.
If you're not sure you'd actually use portable gaming that often, think harder before buying. A $549 device that sits in a drawer isn't a good value.
But if you know you want portable PC gaming? The Steam Deck OLED is the best way to get it right now. And the 512GB model specifically offers the best balance of features and price.
Just unboxed your Steam Deck OLED? Here's how to get from box to gaming in about 30 minutes.
Turn it on: Hold the power button for a few seconds. You'll get a friendly setup wizard.
Pick your language: Self-explanatory. You can change this later if needed.
Connect to WiFi: Pick your network, type your password. Use the 5 GHz network if your router has one—it's faster for downloads.
Sign into Steam: Have your username and password ready. If you use Steam Guard two-factor authentication, have your phone nearby for the code.
Let it update: The Deck will want to update itself. This takes 5–10 minutes depending on your internet. Just let it do its thing. Don't skip this.
And... that's basically it. You're set up.
If you bought extra storage:
Now when you download games, you can choose where to install them. I recommend a good 512GB card.
Your Steam library shows up automatically with all your purchases. Pick some games and hit install. Pro tip: start with something small to test while larger games download in the background.
Important: If you plan to play games offline (like on a plane), launch each game briefly while you still have internet. Some games need that initial online handshake before they'll work offline.
Setup freezes? Hold the power button for 10+ seconds until it shuts off, then try again. Usually works fine the second time.
WiFi won't connect? Try your router's 5 GHz network instead of 2.4 GHz. The Deck can be picky about 2.4 GHz.
Totally stuck? There's a recovery mode. Turn off the Deck, then hold Volume Down + Power together. Select "Re-image Steam Deck" to do a fresh install. Nuclear option, but it works.
Turn on the performance overlay: It shows frame rate and system stats while you play. Found in Quick Access Menu > Performance.
Check cloud saves: Make sure Steam Cloud is on for your games so your saves sync across devices.
Adjust brightness: The OLED gets crazy bright. Auto-brightness works well, or just turn it down a bit for better battery life.
Seriously, setup is pretty painless. The whole process is designed to feel like setting up a gaming console, not a PC. Most people are playing games within 30 minutes of opening the box.
Keep the charger plugged in during setup (downloads drain battery faster than you'd think), and you'll be fine.
Good news: the Steam Deck OLED plays nice with a ton of accessories. Here's what actually works and what I'd recommend.
Valve's official dock ($89): Works perfectly. Has Ethernet, HDMI, USB ports, and keeps your Deck charged while playing. It's pricey but reliable.
Third-party docks ($30–70): JSAUX and similar brands make great alternatives that cost less. Just make sure it has 45W+ power delivery and HDMI output. Most USB-C laptop docks work too.
My take: Unless you want guaranteed compatibility, a $40–50 third-party dock does the job.
PlayStation DualSense: My personal favorite. Connects via Bluetooth, works great, and the haptics function in games that support them. PS4 controllers work too.
Xbox controllers: Series X controllers connect via Bluetooth or USB. Work excellently.
8BitDo controllers: Great budget option. Their Pro 2 is popular with Deck owners.
Basically any Bluetooth or USB controller works. Steam Input handles mapping automatically.
MicroSD cards: Get a good one—SanDisk Extreme or Samsung EVO Select in 512GB–1TB sizes. Cheap cards can be unreliable and slow.
USB-C SSDs: Work fine for extra storage when docked. Can even boot games from external drives.
Any Bluetooth headphones work. Just pair them like you would with a phone.
Wired options: The 3.5mm jack works. USB-C headsets work. USB audio adapters work.
Nothing special required here—standard audio stuff just works.
Look for 45W+ USB-C Power Delivery. The Deck charges pretty fast, so less than 45W still works but charges slower.
20,000mAh or more is ideal for extended gaming away from outlets. Good power banks can basically double your battery life.
The case that comes with the OLED model is actually pretty good. If you want something different, cases designed for the original LCD Steam Deck fit the OLED too—they're the same size.
Screen protectors are available, but the OLED's glass is already quite durable. Personal preference whether you need one.
For Desktop mode, any Bluetooth keyboard and mouse work. USB peripherals work when docked. Helpful if you want to use the Deck as a mini computer sometimes.
The Steam Deck OLED uses standard USB-C, so most modern accessories "just work." The main things worth buying: a good microSD card, maybe a dock for TV play, and a power bank for travel.
Absolutely. The Steam Deck OLED has a microSD card slot that makes adding storage dead simple, plus you can replace the internal SSD if you want to go all-in.
This is what most people do, and it works great.
Stick a microSD card in the slot on the bottom, format it through settings, and boom—extra storage. Cards up to 2TB work, though 512GB or 1TB is the sweet spot for most people.
Does it slow down games? A little. We're talking maybe 10–20% longer loading times compared to internal storage. In practice? A few extra seconds here and there. Most people don't notice or care.
What card should I get? Look for A2 rating and U3 speed class. SanDisk Extreme and Samsung EVO Select are the go-to recommendations. Avoid super cheap no-name cards—they can fail and corrupt your saves.
This is for people who want maximum speed and don't mind opening their device.
The Steam Deck OLED uses an M.2 2230 SSD internally. You can swap it for a larger one—up to 2TB options exist. This requires:
Is it worth it? If you want everything on fast internal storage and don't mind the hassle, sure. But honestly, microSD is good enough for most people.
For most users: Get a 512GB microSD card. Combine with your internal storage, and you've got around 1TB total. That's plenty.
For heavy gamers: Go with a 1TB microSD. Combined with 512GB internal, you're looking at 1.5TB. That holds a LOT of games.
For enthusiasts: Replace the internal SSD with something larger AND add a microSD card. Maximum capacity, minimal loading time differences.
I keep multiplayer games and stuff I play constantly on internal storage. Single-player games, indie stuff, and games I rotate through go on the microSD card.
Steam makes it super easy to move games between storage locations, so you can shuffle things around if your preferences change.
Takes literally a minute. No technical knowledge required.
If you're trying to decide between OLED and LCD (or wondering if you should upgrade), here's what actually matters.
Once you see the OLED screen, the LCD looks washed out. It's not that the LCD was bad—it was fine. But the OLED is genuinely beautiful.
What makes it better:
If display quality matters to you at all, the OLED is noticeably superior. It's not a subtle difference.
This isn't marketing fluff. The OLED genuinely lasts longer.
LCD: You'd get maybe 2–4 hours on demanding games, 6–8 on light stuff. OLED: More like 3–5 hours on demanding games, 8–12 on light stuff.
That extra 30–50% comes from a bigger battery AND more efficient components. The practical result is less battery anxiety when gaming on the go.
Don't expect higher frame rates. The OLED doesn't run games faster. What it does do:
Same gaming experience, just more efficiently delivered.
WiFi 6E: Theoretically faster downloads. Reality is mixed—some people love it, others still have WiFi complaints.
Bluetooth 5.3: Slightly better controller connectivity.
It's lighter: Despite the bigger battery, they shaved off about 30 grams.
Better haptics: The trackpads feel nicer.
All your games still work. Same controls. Same microSD slot. Same docks and accessories. It's still a Steam Deck, just refined.
If you're buying new: Get the OLED. The LCD is discontinued anyway, and the OLED is better in every way that matters.
If you own an LCD and it works fine: You don't NEED to upgrade. But if you game portably a lot and the better screen and battery appeal to you, it's a worthwhile upgrade. Consider selling your LCD to offset the cost.
If budget is tight: A used LCD is still a great device. The OLED is better, but the LCD isn't bad—just not as nice.
Bottom line: The OLED is what the Steam Deck should have been from the start. Better screen, better battery, same excellent gaming. If you're buying today, there's no reason to hunt for an LCD.
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