Latest Answers
Can the Steam Deck play Windows games that aren't officially supported?
This might be the coolest thing about the Steam Deck that nobody talks about enough: it can run a shocking number of Windows games that technically "shouldn't" work on it. And the best part? You don't need to be a Linux wizard to make it happen.
How Does This Magic Actually Work?
The Steam Deck runs Linux, not Windows, but Valve created this incredible piece of software called Proton that basically acts as a translator. When you try to run a Windows game, Proton intercepts all the Windows-specific requests and translates them into Linux language on the fly.
It sounds complicated, but from your perspective, it's invisible. You just click "Play" and the game works. Most of the time, anyway.
The Reality Check: What Actually Works?
I'm not going to sugarcoat this – not every Windows game works perfectly. But the success rate is way higher than you'd expect. We're talking about roughly 70-80% of games working with little to no fiddling required.
Games that basically always work:
- Older single-player games (think anything from 2018 and earlier)
- Most indie games
- Games that developers have actively tested on Steam Deck
- Anything that doesn't try to install sketchy anti-cheat software
Games that are hit-or-miss:
- Brand new AAA releases (they often get fixed within weeks)
- Competitive multiplayer games with aggressive anti-cheat
- Games with weird DRM or copy protection
- VR games (Steam Deck isn't really meant for VR anyway)
Your Secret Weapon: ProtonDB
Before you buy any game, bookmark this site: ProtonDB.com. It's like Yelp for Steam Deck compatibility. Real users test games and report back with ratings from "Platinum" (works perfectly) to "Borked" (don't even try).
The site also has specific tips like "disable this setting" or "use this Proton version" that can turn a broken game into a working one. I've saved myself hours of frustration by checking this first.
Playing Games from Other Stores
Here's where it gets really fun: you're not limited to Steam games. Want to play something from Epic Games Store? GOG? Even Battle.net? You can.
It requires switching to "Desktop Mode" (basically turning your Steam Deck into a regular Linux computer) and installing the other game launcher. Then you add the game back to Steam and tell it to use Proton. It sounds complicated, but there are YouTube guides that walk you through it step-by-step.
When Things Don't Work (And How to Fix Them)
Sometimes a game will crash, have no audio, or just act weird. Before you give up:
- Check ProtonDB for known fixes
- Try a different Proton version (there are several, and some games work better with older or newer versions)
- Look for launch options that other users recommend
- Give it time – compatibility improves constantly
I've had games that didn't work when I first got my Steam Deck but work perfectly now after Proton updates.
The Bottom Line
The Steam Deck isn't just a "Steam games only" device. It's basically a portable Windows gaming PC that happens to run Linux. With a little patience and the community's help through ProtonDB, you can play a huge chunk of your existing PC game library.
Is it perfect? No. Will every single game in your library work? Probably not. But will you be amazed at how many games DO work that technically shouldn't? Absolutely.
Pro tip: Start with games rated "Gold" or "Platinum" on ProtonDB for the best first impression, then experiment with more challenging titles once you're comfortable with the system. Consider getting a wireless gaming mouse for Desktop Mode when setting up non-Steam games.
Can the Steam Deck OLED run demanding AAA games smoothly?
This is probably the biggest question on your mind: "Can this thing actually handle the games I want to play?" The short answer is yes, but with some important caveats that you should know before dropping your money on one.
Let's Set Realistic Expectations
The Steam Deck OLED can absolutely run AAA games, but it's not going to give you the same experience as your gaming PC or PlayStation 5. Think of it more like having a really capable gaming laptop from a few years ago – powerful enough for most things, but you'll need to make some compromises.
The "OLED" part doesn't make games run any faster, by the way. You're getting the same gaming power as the original Steam Deck, just with a prettier screen and better battery life.
The Good News: What Actually Runs Great
Some AAA games are absolutely fantastic on the Steam Deck:
God of War is probably the poster child for great Steam Deck performance. It looks gorgeous, runs at a smooth 45-60 FPS, and feels like it was designed for the device. Same story with Spider-Man Remastered – once you tweak the settings a bit, it's an excellent experience.
Elden Ring runs beautifully too, which is impressive considering how demanding it is. You'll get 45-60 FPS with the right settings, and the portable experience actually enhances the exploration aspects of the game.
The Reality Check: What's Challenging
Cyberpunk 2077 is playable, but don't expect miracles. You're looking at 30-40 FPS with medium settings, and it can feel a bit sluggish if you're used to high-end PC gaming. It's definitely playable, but it's not the ideal way to experience Night City.
Red Dead Redemption 2 falls into the same category – beautiful game, but you'll be making compromises on settings and accepting lower framerates.
The Technical Stuff (That Actually Matters)
Here's the thing that's been bugging people lately: some users are reporting weird GPU issues where the performance jumps around unpredictably. It's like your car engine randomly deciding to run at different power levels. Valve hasn't fixed this yet, and it can make some games feel stuttery.
Also, since most games on Steam Deck are running through a compatibility layer (because the Steam Deck runs Linux, not Windows), you might lose 5-15% performance compared to running the same game on a Windows PC. Most of the time you won't notice, but it can matter for games that are already struggling to hit 30 FPS.
My Honest Take on "Smooth" Gaming
If "smooth" to you means 60+ FPS with high settings, then no, the Steam Deck won't consistently deliver that with AAA games. But if you can accept 30-40 FPS with medium settings, then absolutely yes.
The key is adjusting your expectations. I've found that capping games at 30 FPS often feels better than trying to push for 45-60 and getting inconsistent performance. It's like choosing a steady cruise over stop-and-go traffic.
Pro Tips That Actually Work
Lower the resolution scaling to 70-80%. This is a game-changer that many people don't know about. You'll barely notice the visual difference, but you'll get a significant performance boost.
Use the 40 FPS / 40Hz mode. It's a sweet spot that feels smoother than 30 FPS but is much more achievable than 60 FPS for demanding games.
Check ProtonDB before buying games. This community-run site tells you exactly how well games run on Steam Deck and gives you settings recommendations from other users.
Bottom line: The Steam Deck OLED can handle AAA games, but you need to be realistic about what "smooth" means. With the right settings and expectations, it's an incredible portable gaming experience. Just don't expect it to replace your main gaming setup for the most demanding titles. Consider pairing it with a portable gaming monitor for docked play when you want a larger screen experience.
How long does it take to fully charge the Steam Deck?
Alright, let's talk about something super practical: how long you'll be tethered to a wall outlet when your Steam Deck dies. Because let's be honest, that moment when your battery hits 5% during an epic boss fight is pure anxiety.
The Quick Answer
With the charger that comes in the box, you're looking at about 1 hour and 40 minutes to get to 80% charged, and roughly 2.5 to 3 hours for a complete charge. But here's the thing – that last 20% takes forever because the Steam Deck is being extra careful with your battery.
Think of it like filling up a water balloon. The first 80% goes in fast, but then you have to slow way down to avoid bursting it.
Sleep Mode is Your Friend
Here's a pro tip that actually makes a difference: put your Steam Deck to sleep while charging. I'm not kidding – this can cut your charging time by about an hour compared to gaming while plugged in.
I get it, waiting is torture when you want to keep playing. But trust me, that hour of patience upfront saves you from having a half-charged device later.
What About Other Chargers?
You don't have to use the charger that came with your Steam Deck, but you need to be smart about it:
The magic number is 45W. That's the minimum power you need for decent charging speeds. Anything less and you'll be waiting forever (seriously, some phone chargers will barely keep up with your gaming power consumption).
Got a laptop charger? If it's USB-C and outputs 45W or more, it'll probably work great. Many modern laptop chargers are actually perfect for the Steam Deck.
Those massive 100W+ chargers? They won't hurt anything, but they won't charge your Steam Deck any faster either. The device is smart enough to only take what it needs.
Real-World Charging Scenarios
The "Oh Crap" Moment: Your Steam Deck just died in the middle of a gaming session. Plug it in and give it about 20-30 minutes, and you'll have enough juice for another hour or two of gaming. Not ideal, but it'll get you through that boss fight.
The Overnight Charge: This is the dream scenario. Plug it in before bed, and wake up to a fully charged device ready for all-day gaming.
The Travel Dilemma: Charging while gaming on a plane or long car ride. You'll get some power, but it'll be slow. Pack a good power bank with 45W+ output if you're serious about extended travel gaming.
One Important Thing
The Steam Deck is pretty smart about protecting your battery. That's why charging slows down dramatically after 80% – it's not broken, it's being careful. This actually helps your battery last longer over the years, which is way more important than shaving 30 minutes off your charging time.
Bottom line: Plan for about 2-3 hours for a full charge, but you can often get back to gaming much sooner if you're not picky about having 100% battery. Consider getting a backup USB-C charger for travel or keeping one at work for emergency top-ups.
How long does the Steam Deck battery actually last during gaming?
If you're considering a Steam Deck, you're probably wondering: "How long will this thing actually last when I'm gaming?" It's a fair question, especially since Valve's official "2-8 hours" range is about as helpful as saying "somewhere between a short nap and a full night's sleep."
Let me give you the real scoop based on actual testing and user experiences.
What You Can Actually Expect
The newer Steam Deck OLED (the one that came out in 2024) gets about 3-12 hours of gaming time, while the original LCD model typically delivers 2-8 hours. But here's the thing – it really depends on what you're playing.
Think of it like asking "How far can I drive on a tank of gas?" Well, are you cruising down the highway or stuck in city traffic with the AC blasting?
Game Types and Their Battery Appetite
The Battery Killers (1.5-2 hours): Games like Cyberpunk 2077, Control, or any recent AAA title will absolutely demolish your battery. These games are like having a sports car – they're impressive, but don't expect great mileage. You're looking at maybe a movie's worth of playtime before you need to plug in.
The Sweet Spot Games (3-4 hours): This is where games like Hades, Dead Cells, or older AAA titles live. They look great and play smoothly without completely destroying your battery. Perfect for a cross-country flight or a long commute.
The Marathon Runners (6-7+ hours): Indie games and 2D titles like FTL, Into the Breach, or Stardew Valley are absolute champions here. These games can actually get you close to that magical 8-hour mark Valve talks about. Perfect for all-day gaming sessions.
Pro Tips for Squeezing Out More Battery
Here's what actually works (and I've tested this stuff):
Cap your framerate to 30 FPS. I know, I know – it sounds like heresy if you're used to 60+ FPS gaming. But trust me, capping at 30 FPS can literally double your battery life, and many games still feel perfectly smooth.
Turn down that brightness. Going from maximum brightness to about 50% can give you an extra hour or two. Your eyes will thank you too, especially in darker environments.
Use the power tools. The Steam Deck has built-in TDP (power) limiting features. Learning to use these can extend your gaming sessions significantly without making games unplayable.
The OLED Advantage
If you're choosing between models, the OLED version really does deliver on its battery promises. The screen technology is just more efficient, and Valve improved the power management. It's not revolutionary, but that extra 30-50% battery life adds up to real-world gaming time.
Bottom line: Plan for about 2 hours of intensive gaming, 4 hours for most games, and longer for lighter titles. With some tweaking, you can stretch these numbers significantly. Consider investing in a portable power bank for extended gaming sessions away from outlets.
Does the Google Nest Thermostat work without a C-wire?
Here's the million-dollar question that keeps coming up: "Can I install a Nest Thermostat without that mysterious C-wire everyone talks about?"
The short answer? Yes, absolutely! Google designed the Nest Thermostat specifically to work without a C-wire in most homes. But let me give you the full story so you know what to expect.
How Google Made This Magic Happen
Google's engineers were pretty clever about this. They built the Nest Thermostat to "borrow" tiny amounts of power from your heating and cooling wires when your system isn't running. Think of it like sipping power instead of chugging it.
This borrowed power keeps the thermostat's battery charged, your WiFi connected, and all those smart features humming along. Pretty neat, right?
When It Works Like a Dream
You're probably golden if you have:
- A standard gas furnace with central air (most common setup)
- Electric heating that cycles on and off regularly
- A basic heat pump that isn't running 24/7
- Pretty much any "normal" HVAC system from the last 20 years
Most people fall into this category and never have a single issue.
When You Might Hit Some Bumps
Watch out if you have:
- A heat pump system (especially with backup heat)
- One of those super-efficient systems that runs constantly at low power
- An HVAC system that's working overtime in extreme climates
- An older system with quirky electrical behavior
Red Flags That Scream "Get a C-Wire!"
If you notice any of these after installation, it's time to consider adding that C-wire:
- Your thermostat keeps losing WiFi connection
- The display randomly turns off
- Your heating or cooling system starts acting weird (short cycling)
- You get error messages about low power
- The smart features work inconsistently
Your C-Wire Game Plan
Try it without first if:
- You have a standard setup and you're feeling optimistic
- You're handy enough to add a C-wire later if needed
- You want to see how it goes before spending extra money
Go straight for the C-wire if:
- You have a heat pump or complex system
- You want zero headaches from day one
- You're already having a pro install it anyway
Bottom line: Most people can skip the C-wire and be perfectly happy with their Google Nest Thermostat. But if you're one of the unlucky few who needs it, adding one later isn't the end of the world—just a bit more work.
Is the Google Nest Thermostat compatible with my HVAC system?
Good news! The Google Nest Thermostat works with most home heating and cooling systems—about 85% of them, to be exact. But before you get excited and order one, let's make sure your system is actually compatible.
Will It Work With Your System?
If you have any of these, you're probably good to go:
- A gas furnace with central air (the most common setup)
- An electric heat pump system
- Electric baseboard heating
- Radiant floor heating
- Most modern HVAC systems installed in the last 20 years
These systems won't work:
- High-voltage systems (like some electric heaters)
- Old millivolt systems (think gas fireplaces or wall heaters)
- Really old systems with weird, non-standard wiring
- Some proprietary systems that only work with the manufacturer's thermostat
The Real Deal: It's All About the Wires
Here's what really matters—the wiring behind your current thermostat. If you've got at least 2 wires, you might be in business. But honestly, having more wires (especially that C-wire everyone talks about) will make your life much easier.
Think of it this way: your thermostat is like the conductor of an orchestra, but it can only work with the instruments (wires) you give it.
Don't Guess—Check First
Here's what smart shoppers do:
- Pop off your current thermostat and take a photo of the wires
- Head to Google's compatibility checker online (it's free and pretty accurate)
- When in doubt, call an HVAC pro for a quick assessment
Pro tip: If you're even slightly unsure, it's worth having a professional take a look. Spending on a consultation beats buying a thermostat that won't work with your system.
What If Your System Isn't Compatible?
Don't panic! You have options:
- The Nest Learning Thermostat works with more systems
- Other smart thermostats might be a better fit
- Sometimes a simple modification can make your system compatible
- In rare cases, you might need some additional equipment
Bottom line: Most people can use a Nest Thermostat, but checking compatibility first will save you time, money, and frustration. Your future self will thank you for doing the homework upfront.
What's the difference between the regular Paperwhite and Signature Edition?
The Signature Edition is basically the "premium" version of the Paperwhite, and whether it's worth the extra cash depends on how much you value convenience features versus pure reading functionality.
What You Actually Get
For more, you get wireless charging, auto-brightness, double the storage, and no ads out of the box. Now, here's the thing – when you factor in that removing ads from the regular Paperwhite costs , you're really only paying extra for the premium features when comparing apples to apples.
Wireless charging sounds cool, but honestly? It's slower than just plugging in the USB-C cable, and you'll need to buy a charging pad if you don't have one. I use it occasionally, but it's more of a "nice to have" than a game-changer.
Auto-brightness is hit or miss. Sometimes it nails the perfect brightness, other times you'll find yourself manually adjusting it anyway because everyone's preferences are different. I know people who love it and others who immediately turn it off.
The storage bump from 16GB to 32GB is honestly overkill for most people. Unless you're planning to load up thousands of graphic novels or audiobooks, 16GB holds more books than you'll read in several lifetimes.
My Take on Value
If you're someone who loves having the latest features and wants the "best" version available, go for the Signature Edition. The wireless charging is genuinely convenient for bedside table charging, and auto-brightness works well enough that some people swear by it.
But if you're price-conscious or just want a fantastic e-reader without the bells and whistles, the regular Paperwhite is 95% as good for significantly less money. You're not missing anything that affects the actual reading experience.
The Sweet Spot
Honestly, I'd call the regular Paperwhite without ads () the best value in the lineup. You get all the core benefits that make the Paperwhite special – waterproofing, great battery life, excellent screen – without paying for convenience features that many people don't use regularly.
Can I connect to library apps like Libby and OverDrive on the Kindle Paperwhite?
Absolutely! And honestly, this is one of the Kindle's best-kept secrets. You can borrow books from your public library and read them on your Paperwhite just like any book you bought. The process is super smooth once you know how it works.
The Magic Behind the Scenes
Here's the thing – you don't actually install Libby or OverDrive on your Kindle. Instead, you use these apps on your phone or computer to do the borrowing, then the books magically appear on your Kindle. It's pretty slick.
I typically use the Libby app on my phone to browse my library's collection. When I find something I want to read, I hit "Borrow," choose "Read with Kindle," and boom – within a few minutes, it shows up in my Kindle library. No cables, no file transfers, no hassle.
The Library Experience
Once the book is on your Paperwhite, it works exactly like any other book. You can change font sizes, bookmark pages, highlight passages, look up words – everything you'd expect. The only difference is it automatically disappears when your loan period ends (usually 2-3 weeks), which honestly is kind of convenient since you don't have to remember to return anything.
A Few Reality Checks
Not every library has the same selection, and popular new releases often have waiting lists just like physical books. But most library systems have thousands of Kindle books available instantly. I've been using this for years and rarely can't find something good to read.
One heads up: this works great in the US, pretty well in Canada, but can be hit-or-miss internationally depending on your local library's setup and publishing agreements.
Why This Is Awesome
I easily save + per year using library books instead of buying everything. For heavy readers, this feature alone can pay for the Kindle many times over. Plus, you can try authors or genres you might not want to purchase, knowing you're not stuck with books you don't love.
Is the Kindle Paperwhite waterproof and what does that mean?
Absolutely yes – and this is one of those features you don't realize how much you need until you have it. The Kindle Paperwhite's IPX8 waterproof rating means you can drop it in up to 6 feet of fresh water for an hour and it'll be totally fine.
What This Actually Means for You
I'm not suggesting you should go diving with your Kindle, but this opens up so many reading opportunities that were previously off-limits. Bath reading becomes completely stress-free (seriously, game-changer), poolside reading doesn't require constant vigilance, and you can actually enjoy a book at the beach without panicking about sand and spray.
The peace of mind is incredible. No more death-gripping your device near water or freaking out when your coffee cup tips over. I've personally dunked mine in the bathtub (accidentally, of course) and it kept working like nothing happened.
The Fine Print
Here's what you need to know: the waterproof rating is for fresh water. If you're reading by a saltwater pool or at the beach and it gets splashed, just rinse it off with fresh water when you get home. Salt and chlorine can be corrosive over time, but a quick rinse takes care of that.
Don't use it as a submarine, and definitely don't try to read underwater – the touchscreen doesn't work well when submerged anyway. But for normal "oops" moments and intentional water-adjacent reading? You're golden.
Recovery Process
If your Paperwhite does take a swim, here's what to do: dry it off with a towel, make sure the charging port is completely dry before plugging anything in, and you're good to go. I've never had to do anything more complicated than that.
The waterproofing alone makes the Kindle Paperwhite worth the upgrade over the basic Kindle if you're someone who reads in various environments. It's one of those features that transforms how confidently you can use the device.
How good is the Kindle Paperwhite battery life and what affects it?
The Kindle Paperwhite's battery life is honestly ridiculous – and I mean that in the best possible way. We're talking about a device you can literally forget to charge for months and still have juice when you need it.
The Real Numbers
Amazon claims 12 weeks, and while that's technically true under perfect lab conditions, real-world usage typically gives you 8-10 weeks. That's still incredible when you consider most devices need daily charging. I've personally gone over two months between charges during lighter reading periods.
What Actually Kills Your Battery
Wi-Fi is the villain here. Seriously, leaving Wi-Fi on constantly will tank your battery from weeks to days. The Paperwhite works overtime when it's downloading books, syncing your reading position across devices, or when you're using features that need internet access.
Brightness matters too, but not as much as you'd think. I keep mine around level 13-15 for comfortable reading, and it barely impacts the overall battery life compared to Wi-Fi usage.
The sneaky battery killer? Sometimes your Kindle gets stuck trying to process a corrupted book file. It'll keep trying to index it in the background, which can drain power faster than normal. If your battery suddenly starts dying quickly, that's often the culprit.
Pro Tips from Heavy Usage
Turn on Airplane Mode when you're not actively downloading new books – you can still read everything you've already downloaded. I flip Wi-Fi on when I want to buy something new, then right back off.
The warm light feature barely affects battery life, so don't worry about using it for evening reading. Your sleep is more important than squeezing out an extra few days of charge.
If your battery suddenly starts draining fast, restart your Kindle. Nine times out of ten, that fixes whatever background process was going haywire.
Download ShopSavvy AppCompare prices for anything in real-time, set price alerts, watch for deals by keyword, and much more
Install ShopSavvy Browser ExtensionCompare and track prices automatically while you shop online at thousands of websites.
🔥 Trending Deals
Loading trending deals...
Footer 1
Subscribe for Updates
Get the latest news, and updates on ShopSavvy. You'll be glad you did!